Processing. What it is, and why your coffee tastes the way it does.

Thomas Catherwood

Processing. What it is, and why your coffee tastes the way it does.

There's a detail on most specialty coffee bags that a lot of people walk past. Tucked under the origin, sometimes next to the varietal — washed, natural, honey. It looks like fine print. It isn't.

Processing is what happens to a coffee cherry between the tree and the roaster. It's the stage that decides how much of the fruit surrounding the seed gets to influence the final flavour — and the difference between methods isn't subtle. The same farm, the same harvest, processed differently, can produce two coffees that taste like they came from different countries.


Washed

The cherry is picked, the fruit stripped away mechanically, and the exposed seed ferments briefly in water before being dried on raised beds. The whole process is designed to remove the fruit's influence as cleanly as possible. What you're left with is a cup that reflects the seed — the origin, the altitude, the varietal — without interference.

Washed coffees are typically bright and defined. The acidity reads clearly. The fruit notes, when they're there, are precise rather than expansive. Our current Kenya, the Kii Rung'eto, is washed — it's why the plum and red currant come through as distinct flavours rather than a general impression of fruit. The process created the conditions for that clarity. The altitude and the SL28 varietal did the rest.

Natural

The cherry dries whole. Skin, pulp, seed — all of it sits on raised beds for three to six weeks while the seed ferments inside the surrounding fruit. It's the oldest processing method and the one with the most pronounced effect on flavour.

Natural coffees carry weight. Body, sweetness, and fruit characteristics that go well beyond what the seed alone could produce — blueberry, dried fig, wine, tropical fruit. These aren't terroir notes. They're what happens when a seed spends weeks in contact with fermenting fruit. A natural-processed Ethiopian from Yirgacheffe can taste so different from a washed lot from the same region that the shared origin is almost unrecognisable.

Some people find that intensity immediately appealing. Some find it takes adjustment. Both responses make sense.

Honey

The skin comes off but the mucilage — the sticky fruit layer underneath — is left on during drying, in varying amounts. Yellow honey retains the least, black honey the most, with red sitting between them. More mucilage means more sweetness and body in the cup; less means something closer to a washed profile with a little added texture.

Honey processing started in Costa Rica and is common across Central America. The cup tends toward stone fruit — peach, apricot, nectarine — with a syrupy texture that washed coffees rarely have. It's a useful middle ground, and a reliable entry point if you're trying to move someone from blends toward single origins without the full intensity of a natural.

Why it's worth knowing

The processing method is on the bag because it tells you something real about what you're about to taste. It's not marketing language. A washed lot will behave differently on a pourover than a natural from the same region — different grind size, different temperature, different extraction time to get the best out of it.

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